Monday, July 03, 2006

Ginza Scramble

One of the most amazing experiences I had in Toyko yesterday was at an intersection in Ginza, the shopping district. The big picture below is of a street that is closed to traffic and reserved for pedestrians during the day on weekends. But on another street, at the intersection, we crossed diagonally. It was a HUGE intersection. The traffic stopped both ways, the cross walk lights came on at every corner, and people moved in every direction all at the same time. Yoko called it a "scramble" and that was exactly the way it felt. A picture wouldn't have done it justice.

Personal safety is a radically different concept here. I was most aware of this cultural difference at the bazaar in Asakusa. Japan is a VERY safe country. There is little crime. Few people can own a gun. The peer pressure to conform your behavior to the group norm is so great that few people act out. No one asserts individuality (except in fashion, which is a whole other topic). So Japanese people do not live with the fear of violence and crime that has become so much a part of American life. In the bazaar, which was busy but not crowded (see pic below bottom right), I was constantly aware of my purse and the belongings I was carrying - not to drop anything, to be aware of my money and keep my purse zipped. I felt tense, not relaxed and carefree, like Rie and Yoko. On the train home, it was very crowded (to me; Yoko says it wasn't). Bodies were touching, arms overhead holding on. I was thankful I am tall and also that personal cleanliness is a high priority in Japan. Once I was back to back with a girl whose butt fit right under mine like a puzzle. At least the platform attendants didn't have to PUSH as they do during rush hour to fill the trains.

Today I learned what the police do in Japan, since it is so safe here. On Saturday Shotaro left an umbrella (one of Hitoshi/Eddie's favorites, a classic style with American football players on it) on the bus at the stop just behind the house. Today I wanted Yoko to call the bus company to check lost and found. I thought it would be an adventure to find the lost umbrella. Yoko found this ridiculous. Of course the bus company would have the umbrella, organized and catalogued in their lost and found. And if unclaimed after 3 days, turned over to the police for storage. Yes, the job of police in Japan is to protect lost and found items. I couldn't believe it. Sure enough, she called, they had the umbrella and tomorrow it goes to the police unless we claim it. However, it would cost more in bus fare to retrieve the umbrella that it would to buy a new one, so the football umbrella is lost to us forever.

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